Queenstown to Auckland

Today we had until about 2.30pm to amuse ourselves in Queenstown, until Steve took us and our bike boxes to the airport, for the first section of our flight homeward-bound.

The forecast was for wet last night so we all had no qualms in enjoying a few beverages in the pub. Last couple of days of 'Savs'- the bastardised kiwi pronunciation of Sauvignon.

From all my sampling Olympus Sav was the nicest🍸

After a relaxed start I decided to squeeze in my last long run here, as the rain was just a threat and the friendly receptionist seemed happy for me to have a few extra minutes in the room to shower after. 

Breakfast wasn't up to Steve's cardboard box surprise standard so minimal digestion time was needed (it was almost possible to inhale the miniscule amount of muesli) and I soon was running along the Frankton track and round to the falls. 6miles out before turning back.

It was rather lovely to know my other half was doing exactly the same on the other side of the world.

I think the receptionist was still bowled over by the romance of yesterday's floral surprise as she couldn't stop telling me how nothing like that ever happens. And I grinned like the cyclist who's just found a motel room with a bath.

Quick shower then off into the now drizzly weather to walkabout a bit. Bought a couple more (light) souvenirs, as my weight allowance is no doubt right on the wire and every gram counts.

Bumped into my companions who were also playing dodge the rain. 

The rain had stopped by 13.30 and snow could now be seen on the tops:

Mother Nature's helping to ease the transition further, the temperature here can't be much different to the UK and locals now have winter to look forward to, whereas we have Spring and all the fun that that will bring🏊🚴🌿🏡🏃❤️

....now we are at the airport getting excited about the in flight refreshments. I'm still feeling muddled about the BIG flight back in time, does that mean we just keep being given breakfasts over and over again?

It's now 23.00. The bike boxes have been reorganised, aiming for 30kg. There was a bit of shuffling around at Queenstown to get under 23kg. I now know my seat post weighs 1.2kg and socks and other slightly whiffy items 1.3kg.

The security man was very pleasant examining my bag and generally staff as amenable as can be, treating us as humans rather than cattle.

I noted it took the time to drink two cups of water, read two blog entries to jan and phil, watch a funny nz safety notice, eat a cookie and read 8 pages of my book to fly the distance it took us 21 days to cycle. 

Te Anau to Milford to Te Anau to Queenstown

Well, feeling very much like frauds after an early breakfast, we travelled to Milford, on the coach.

Phil complained of an achy bum within half an hour and most of the peleton had devoured their packed lunch by 11am. All this resting is definitely bad for you!

The coach driver was rather entertaining, with a dry sense of humour. Just as well as we were all under major attack from the yawns.

We were also, in our new stationary mode, under attack from the pesky sandflies again. So a quick change into leggings (and the opportunity to explain compression wear to Kim). I'm not sure whether some of the local elders have come across Skins before and wearing lycra almost felt a bit embarrassing! Phil gave me some reassurances☺️

The boat was full and it was rather a shock to be in such close proximity to so many other humans after so much time alone on the open road. 

Fortunately the Real Journey Company didn't spot Jan boarding else the free tea/coffee offer would no doubt have been swiftly withdrawn.

Most fellow boat trippers in fact seemed to be on board to eat their way through the trip, focusing their attention on how many sandwiches and snacks they could stuff in, while casting an occasional eye on the surroundings. The fodder for Graham's somewhat cynical observations of nature were boundless today.

The weather was good, dry. Which is a rare thing here by all accounts.

Much to my amusement quite a few fellow trippers got a soaking when we went close to a large waterfall, I had cannily scurried away in time.

The boat journeyed toward the Tasman Sea and a gentle swell affirmed Steve was indeed better off driving the bikes back to Queenstown, rather than being here hunting for sick bags.

Seeing some seals was nice, all chilled out on their rocks and Kim caught a glimpse of a dolphin fin, while doing her Kate Winslett impression.

On the coach on the way back we were frequently given the chance to take in some more of nature's majesty: The Chasm, Mirror Lakes, Knob's Flat (lots I could say here but won't!) For some, it was just too much like hard work to get off the coach again:

The trip was rounded off by getting to our room at Queenstown and yet further realisation what a very lucky lady I am indeed❤️ Home is totally where my heart is.

Mossburn to Te Anau

The cycle adventure is now complete as we have reached Te Anau, a small town on the edge of yet another beautiful lake, on the edge of fjordland.

I was up awake before the larks today, having felt so shattered last night by 9pm I even hinted to Jan if she didn't get a wriggle on into her bed there might be no bed time story! Hence me then being awake at 5.30am😄

So I was off almost as early as Kim this morning.

I think my body had made it so, as I have enjoyed riding by myself most of the time and it felt right to round off the last day riding like that.

It was chilly first thing but deceptive weather again, as evidenced by my pinkish arm from yesterday. But we were all (except Jan!) pretty much covered up til the coffee stop at 36miles. Manapouri was a wonderful oasis of sparkling water and mountains after the browny hillsides.

I seemed to be hunting that mountain peak for ages, suspecting a visual treat would make the blustery miles well worth it and we were not disappointed, again😄

From there, topped up on nuts, it was only 14miles to our final destination:

I felt a wave of lots of feelings as I pulled up alongside the lake and luckily there were some holiday makers I could babble my accomplishment to, and ask to take a picture with me in!

So now the 1314miles are done, 85.5 hours cycling in the legs. And all of a sudden I feel really really tired!!

My bike has been brilliant, no issues at all except a minor gear cable adjustment. 

So now he's all packed up, snug in his box, ready for the first leg of the journey back up to Auckland.

We have 3 days of leisure pursuits ahead and tomorrow we're off to Milford Sound for a boat trip. A restful day. With that thought in mind, decided to go and have a run round the lake to try and find the famous Keplar trail. Made it to Dock Bay, 4miles away. That film where the heroine is in a lush forest, with shafts of sunlight glinting through the magical gnarly trees, when she stumbles across a unicorn.....well I was in that wood! No unicorn but another really wonderful memory😄

Queenstown to Mossburn

I'm starting to suspect my roomy is suffering from body dys-tannia. This morning a little liverpudlian voice piped up next to me  "I don't think I'm that brown". I turned to look at the smiling conker next to me and replied that I'm not sure it's possible to be any more suntanned.

So, penultimate day on the bikes! We left Queenstown behind and spent the first 20miles alongside Lake Wakatipu, in the shade of the mountains, so a bit fresh.

I kept thinking of Grieg, in the Hall of the Mountain King do de do de do do dooooo.

After 28miles it was time for a little stop and the mood was holidayish and relaxed with myself, Kim, Steve and Donna supping a beverage. The sun felt powerful but the air was cool, unusual weather. So it was a bit of a top on/ top off/top on/top off morning.

Jan and Phil caught up at the next stop at 46miles. Jan's gear cable had snapped leaving Queenstown, so Steve had performed an earlier rescue. Here's a picture of her usual rescuer:

The rescue must have quite worn Steve out as you can see, running a Bike Adventure trip is jolly hard work:

The mountains were sun-scorched brown grass today and most of the day it all hardly looked real.

Sometimes I still can't quite believe I'm cycling through New Zealand, so perhaps it's not!

Lots of sheep today, who all look a bit baffled by a bike whizzing by. I think the farmer looked a bit bemused earlier too when he saw me have a quick piddle on the side of the road too haha. I do love being at one with nature!

The last 20miles felt a bit of a slog, the road disappeared into the horizon and our arch enemy the headwind was back!

I arrived at Mossburn Hotel/pub and after a bit of banter with the friendly barman and a chase by the local Jack Russell got in and showered. 

Am now installed in the garden in the sun!

Mike made a good observation earlier at breakfast about the trip. If you go on holiday for a couple of weeks you're left wanting more, but after nearly 4 weeks away, going home becomes as appealing. It feels very much like you can have the best of both worlds😍

70miles today and last washing of the cycling shorts!

Wanaka to Queenstown (1st visit)

Cripes! That was an excillerating trip from beautiful Wanaka (well up there with my favourite places ever).

The mood was bouyant among the group at breakfast, as we munched on our muesli mountains.

The sky was clear blue with the promise of no need for rain jackets. Slightly cool air to start, which soon warmed as the first miles ticked by. It looked remarkably more brown on the mountainsides and made me think about some pictures mum used to have of the grand canyon. Steve was also thinking it was somewhat like Nevada. 

I had Bonanza in my head, mixed in with Indiana Jones. Plus of course Phil Collins, who was back with a vengence after hearing Monsieur Godof at breakfast time❤️

Today was 'Crown Pass' day, essentially a climb and descent if you happened to skim your eye over the daily profile.

It was all very gradual for the 15miles to our coffee stop, the only place en route so we made ourselves comfortable in the garden at the wild west style hotel:

It was actually so pleasant I almost started thinking I could stay all day sat there, as if?!?!

So after that the steepness picked up, resulting in the need for 'out of the saddle' mode on quite a few occasions and a nice amount of huffing and puffing. Twice mother nature laid a soft hand on my back and gently blew me up the hill😄

At the end, what a view!!!! I think it thoroughly outdid the Galibier for wow-ness:

We all re-grouped, felt pleased with ourselves at the top and anticipated a quick whizz down as we spied Queenstown nestled far away in the distance next to the vivid blue water.

Layers on and we were off but oh my life how scary were those miles down?! The wind was very strong and gusty and while the heavier members of the group had no issues, some of us were everywhere!! I honestly considered calling Steve to drive back up and put me and my steed in the van, that shows how scary it was!!

Thankfully cars were patient as I wove a path in the middle of the road to allow for gusting movements (as did the other adventurers).

Between Jan and I if you had a dollar for every 'f' word you could fly to New Zealand.

Eventually we reached flatter road but the wind was still unrelenting and I pushed on to reach the motel, soaking up the stunning aquamarine colour of the Lake:

What a completely magnificent country this is from top to bottom. 

42miles today.

Makarora to Wanaka

Talk about save the best bits til last!

Well, to begin at the beginning we woke in our little hobbit holes to the sound of some most extraordinary bird calls, what a great way to start the day.

It was chilly, during the night there'd been some rain (as we found out during our middle of the night calls of nature-no loos in the A-frames!) But up on the mountain tops this had fallen as snow so we were greeted with the most fantastic views as we set off along wonderful Highway 6. 

I wasn't prepared for how spectacular it would be today and the wow-ometer was almost off the scale as I chopped along.

It was another ride where I had to stop every half a mile to try to capture the journey on film. 

After about 10miles we started to skirt some of Lake Wanaka and the contrast of the blue water, green hillside and snowy peaks was a bit mind blowing to be honest. I think I resembled an owl on a bike, twisting my head this way and that, trying to take it all in.

After Lake Wanaka we approached Lake Hawea, simply stunning with the sun sparkling on the water.

It really is impossible to take a rubbish photo here!!

It was a short day mileage wise, 40miles of absolute quality!

So, arriving at our Wanaka motel (right near the lake) in good time, I unpacked as usual then meandered off to find some tasty fuel. It was windy by the lake and the snowy peaks unexpected according to the locals I chatted to.

Bought a few souvenirs, procrastinated a bit, then it was time to get in my trainers. Jan and Phil went off for a long walk to Mount Iron (powered up by the carvery he'd sneaked in at Hawea and Jan fuelled up on a record 5 cups of tea, in one sitting). I think she'd also coaxed him along with the promise of me having nothing to do with the route, hehe😄

I'd asked in the i-site about where I could run out and back without getting lost and the lovely girl phoned her boyfriend, a runner, who then came in and talked me through the route! 

It was actually impossible to get lost as the track followed the shore line mostly and what a route! 9 miles out, then back. The wind had dropped and the temperature risen rather a lot so I was over-dressed. Had to strip off somewhat, leaving myself at the mercy of the blood-suckers!

The track wound its way along beaches, mountain bike trails, through trees that you only get in hot countries (!) and then I ran out of Lake and it became a very blue river. I got to Albert Town then turned back. By now the sun was going down and the shimmer on the water was magical, I'd already had to impose a limit on photo stops to every mile:

Got back to base at 18.15, not long after the others and just time for my favourite post-run routine and second of the month:

Good night everyone😃

Haast to Makarora

I'm writing this sat on the grass at the base of Mount Shrimpton, awaiting my fellow climbers return.

The ride was only 48miles today so we were here at our destination, installed in our A-frame cabins by 2pm:

Steve described them as a shed, but I've never slept in a shed before so it's all rather exciting! Jan has her own hobbit hole at last!

Today we cycled along the Haast Pass. 30miles of pretty much flat road, threading its way next to the Haast river before the climb up. It was steep to start but as we'd all psyched ourselves for longer, it was a pleasant surprise to see Steve parked up, telling us the worst was behind us. 

Apart from a few showers the weather gods smiled and we could enjoy some views down the gorge and the rainwater added to the gushing waterfalls, which were frequent en route.

Once over the pass the scenery opened out and the mountains around are vast and (as evident by our attempt to summit Mount Shrimpton) sizeable.

We didn't get to the top, despite 90minutes of sometimes very steep/vertical tramping! I don't think I've seen Jan in such a sweat and Phil's planned inner eyelid inspection has gone somewhat out the window! He may decide not to go with my choice of route in future?! Was a great wilderness path through the roots and trees though. 

Now back in our hobbit hole (the little tinkers took a short cut back at the end of the route, so bypassing me waiting, at the mercy of the sand flies) it's time for tea and biscuits, again! Happy days indeed (albeit a few rather itchy ones).

Fox to Haast

We left Fox with blue skies and the reassurance of the motel owner that his barometer was unchanged, no rain.

View last night:

The first 40miles to the salmon farm cafe stop was flat and smooth jungle-lined tarmac, much like some of yesterday.

This was part of the climb up into Fox we had.

It should have felt easy, but I had a nasty headache. Last night I had a telephone interview with an nhs manager in the UK at 21.45. Not the usual unwind routine before bed that my holiday brain's grown accustomed to. So it was a long time before I dropped off. Then out on the road the holiday bubble was under attack from work brain, suddenly engaged with alarming speed, calculating logistics and practicalities. The ache must have been the sudden change in tempo and content of thought. Come back coffee stop/ pedalling/ sore bum thoughts!

Jan then gave me a few choice words, alongside the salmon. Within a few minutes of additional enthusiastic cycle chat, with the new irish members of our group, aspirin were no longer required.

Steve then fixed my gears, so I can now get in my smallest gear (I was mostly thinking ahead, to tomorrow's beasty climb). Thank you Steve😄

The early morning damp mist had been burned off by the sun and what followed was then some lovely riding towards some coastal hills. Not as bad as we'd thought, but then the legs are without doubt stronger on the uphills now.

After whizzing up and down a few times we had a fast flat stretch to Haast, traversing the longest bridge yet on the trip. I managed to get a peace sign as I waved thanks for giving me right of way, or it could have been two fingers! Haha, oh well, no worries!

Sand flies are a pest here. Steve has complained of them prior to now but it seems they don't like or can't catch our usually moving targets. At our motel they are very much out in force so we've invested in some pungent insect armour. 

It's been great to arrive with a dry bum today, let's hope the rain that's beating down on the roof now toddles off before tomorrow!

75miles today. 

P.s glad this isn't my new job:

Fox To Fox

Today was our second rest day of the trip and several months ago we'd booked a guided walk up on the Fox Glacier (Jan is officially the most advanced planner I've ever known). As luck would have it, of the 200 rainy days a year here, this wasn't one of them.

It's a bloomin scorcher! Clear blue skies and glorious views of the mountains (I resist saying awesome, now referred to as the dreaded 'A' word).

The Glacier is pretty huge (12km long) and we ambled along a track to get to it, then donned our crampons and off we went; to see some crevasses, big rocks, how to use an ice axe and to explore some of the rugged glacier. We were so jammy with the weather, as yesterday it would have been very grim up there indeed.

I think the luck from the bird who plopped on me at dinner a few nights back is holding!

As it was I got rather chilly where we stopped for our snacks, a poor choice of position by our rather irksome guide Finn. So I made an oversize waterproof jacket nest, thanks to Uncle Phil and disappeared for a little while under it.

I re-emerged when it was time to move on to stomp along some more ice. It was a memorable experience to walk on the Glacier and is gonna help me understand a tiny bit more what my nearest and dearest is going through in May. But I'm now rather looking forward to the wind in my hair, my seat back wiggling on the saddle. I'm ready for my bike.

Back at our base Jan and I felt rather fatigued, but concluding that we'd have a good sleep tonight we made a plan. Jan and Phil cycled to Lake Matheson to then walk round and I popped on my trainers to run there. Well, that is well up there in my top 10 most memorable runs ever. The perfect skies allowed a rare view of Mount Cook on the way to and around the lake. That was AWEsome. I only had my camera and not my phone so am unable to share a photo here sadly.

Running on jungle lined trails is a fast-track to a runner's high and I smiled all the way round, feeling very much alive. 

Perhaps my aliveness was also in part due to not having just cycled 60 odd miles as per the other days?!

Jan was so excited to see me when our paths crossed on the way round she fell over backwards into some lichen! 

So now I think it's time to go and eat another steak the size of my head.

Harihari to Fox

After hosting breakfast in our little house (we're taking turns each day) we were off just after 9am. The forecast promised better weather later in the day where we were heading, so the intrepid explorers set off. 

It was rather amusing how diligently Jan and I ensured all our kit was dry, for it to then be soaked through within 10minutes. Nice to be dry for breakfast anyway!

The first section to Whataroa was flat, well it looked flat but there were quite a few false flats today and it felt harder. Legs felt more tired today, partly due to a bit of a rubbish sleep. Perhaps caused by a bit of pining for my kiwi🐦

Donna was back on her bike, confidence restored albeit with a somewhat sore body.

Graham was left with Steve at Harihari, awaiting news of his bike repairs back in Greymouth.

Still no news and it's 3.45pm, perhaps Steve and Graham decided to sack in the cycling lark and chill out with the rather laid back hosts of our motel there?!

So anyway, fingers were crossed there were no other issues among the other riders today.

After Whataroa we pushed on, catching Kim, who never stops at cafes (only on the roadside to eat her snacks). I try my best not to give her a fright each time I go past but to no avail. Whatever volume I say hello with makes her visibly jump from her reverie.

We cycled past Mount Cook I think but he was lost in the rainclouds. On into Franz Josef , again mostly lost in cloud but a welcome bit of shelter from the continual deluge and a very tasty cheese scone.

I was pretty soaked to the skin now and knowing my body, realised the only way to inject some heat was to get the pistons engaged and the central heating back on, I prayed for a hill, a big long one!

Well the next 14miles were that, 3 hills of increasing steepness and it didn't take too long for my fingertips to turn back from purple to happy pink. 

On approaching the last climb a workman smugly told me it was the steepest one yet. Good I said. Take that! After pumping away out of the saddle for a couple of miles the summit was reached and time to whizz down into Fox. 

The hotel lady seemed less than pleased by my drowned rat appearance and velo! There's 4 more to come I said, haha!

So now we are in our room, warm and showered but nothing to wear except a towel til Steve arrives! 

All is calm chez nous but there's only enough milk for one more cup of tea.....then there's no telling what Jan might do...

Wet Sherwood!

Greymouth to Harihari

Well just in case we were getting a bit blase after a week of sun it was time for some rain. The west coast is notorious for it so yesterday lady luck was clearly smiling on us.

Jan and I were feeling casual and were up for a bit of holiday mode cups of tea in bed and chitchat and a later start. The motel was really nice and there was always the chance it could brighten up?!

Phil was in agreement.

The others left not long after 8am as usual, perhaps with the mindset to get it over with.

At 9.15 Steve was called by Donna who had fallen off, an uneven bridge surface to blame. So Steve zipped off pronto to the rescue.

We scrabbled ourselves together and were off. The flat road went close to the coast but not on it, before winding in through some thick forest. 

For all the days for wet and cloud this was probably the best one for it to fall on as the greatest scenery is to come.

So the ride turned into essentially a 3 part time trial. After 23miles we had our first  pit stop. Phil was keen to visit a shop in Hokitika so we called in and who needs much persuasion on a wet day for yet another cappuccino?

Well, the universe works in truly magical ways as walking into the cafe I hear my name and it's my Auntie Mary and Uncle Rex, on holiday in NZ touring around!!!!!

What are the chances of that?!?! I've not seen them for 7 years:

That has to be well up there with the biggest coincidences of my life.

So, after some catching up and amazement, as well as hearing some good tips about where we'll be visiting in the coming week we parted ways.

Mary has your email now mum too!

Time for time trial part two which took us to 43miles. I was keeping a not hanging around 20mph.

At the second stop we caught up Steve and Donna and Graham. Unfortunately in the slippery bridge incident Graham had also come off and as well as being rather sore had broken the electric gear shifter. Doubly unfortunate as at the local bike store in Greymouth they'd not even heard of such a thing.

We'll see what solution is found, Jan and I have come up with several ideas Steve!

So after a toastie (and mince on toast for Phil!!) back out into the wet.

Lost my 20mph average after a few miles as we had to traverse an unmade road. Agh not keen on these! I held up all the traffic tottering along praying for no punctures. The cycling gods answered my prayers!

Then it was time to put my feet down and push on to Hari Hari, our destination.

Still no let up in the rain but Jan and I now have a very cosy little house to stay in, which we are turning into a shoe flavoured tropical subclimate, with the aid of a fan heater.

And look at who came to the window to proudly show us her babies:

If two weeks ago someone had said I'd enjoy 67miles cycling in the rain I'd have been somewhat cynical. But today was as much about connecting with humans, as previous days have been about nature. In our three we've always kept smiling and it was nice of Phil to say I have enough chirp for everyone. 

Having discussed the rare feathered inhabitants of NZ with mum this morning, I realise I have my own kiwi at home: very cute to look at, part-nocturnal, rare and my mate for life❤️

Westport to Greymouth

Round the ragged rocks the radiant runner rode, far too much thinking time pedalling away😄

Today's delights, on the adventure of a lifetime, consisted of this to your right and mountains covered with palm tree jungle vegetation to your left, for the best part of 65miles.

It's no wonder yet another state of cycling euphoria was reached. Today it was somewhat turbo boosted by a breakfast chat with the missing part of this holiday heaven.

The road rolled along, not too much traffic although more caravans today. I had my first unwarranted telling off from one shirty lady, while I was well inside the hard shoulder and they had two whole lanes, she felt it necessary to shout at me to keep over. I gave a cheery wave back. Should have shouted 'no worries'.

Being so out in the elements definitely seems to heighten the senses, all the smells of trees, sea air, fresh cool breeze under the trees then the heat back out under the rays. I often wished for three pairs of eyes today, one for gazing around, one for studying the road and one to look behind as there's a whole different view out back (check out my aussie lingo).

Phil seems to be developing a good aussie twang, hope his dog will recognise his new accent when he returns!

So, week 3 is underway and stats for the two weeks:

Miles cycled: 803

Miles run: 44

Miles swam: 2.5

Photos taken:300

Number of punctures:1

Number of mysterious bruises:3

Number of brown limbs:4

Fingers with silly tan lines:6

Greymouth is on the coast so the hunt for monster mussels continues, we cycled through Havelock (the green lipped mussel capital of the world) a few days back but as it was about 10am I didn't really fancy crustaceans for my elevensies.

After such a great day Steve managed to broaden our grins even further with the gift of this delight in our room:

After two weeks on the saddle a whirlpool bath was a gift from the heavens indeed, so armed with cups of tea and ginger nuts we took our turns for a good wallow. Bliss!!

Murchison to Westport

Another day in cycling heaven:

60miles of quiet Highway 6, my new favourite road in the world. The road winds along next to the river Buller, lots of rolling ups and downs and switchbacks. Really really fun on two wheels!

The day started murkily, cool mountain mist and slightly murky heads due to the raucous local yokels in the bar below our bedroom last night. Nothing a few miles of fresh air couldn't sort out!

The mist soon cleared and the arms were back out, now definitely the most tanned they've ever been in February! 

Magic miles to the snack stop at 30miles, kindly laid on by our leader with his cool box due to it being Sunday so shut up shop time.

The day was the quickest yet, so in to Westport by 1.15pm Jan the stat master informs me.

Time for lunch in town, then they cycled off on the hunt for seals while I re-grouped and mentally prepared for the long run. Bouyed by ginger biscuits and caffeine, sunhat on and she's off. I ran to the coast to the lighthouse, beyond Carters Beach. 8miles exactly there and how glorious it was too:

What a lovely salty mess😃

Had a little stroll about, bumped into jan and phil (!) then ran back. What made it all the more special was that for the first time since October I ran with no niggly shin, cycling is a cure-all yet again in my life🚲🚲🚲

Now to go and hunt a fishy supper. Perfect day again.

Nelson to Murchison

78 miles of this today:

Nature in it's raw state is the greatest entertainment there is. Cycled along today in a state of euphoric wonder, gazing at the lush green mountainsides and loving every moment.

As we left Nelson behind it was out into the wilds and we'd been forewarned of very little in the way of refreshment stops. Exciting! Although there was a little apprehension at breakfast for some in the group, about the longer mileage. Jan and I, being mileage junkies, were full of enthusiasm!

Some bigger ups and downs followed and my legs felt strong today, happiness is a powerful drug indeed.

Cycling is a great leveller, as Phil remarked earlier. Kim and I were on a level when I caught her up after 15miles, chatted about boils, then I pottered off.

Everywhere looks so lush and alive, the grass a vivid green, the trees shades of rich deep green and the cows, deer and horses look gleaming and content. 

Much like us!

There was a cafe at 30miles so I waited for the others there. The coffees were really nice so I had a couple and took in the sun-soaked landscape.

The road wove a path through the valley, sometimes then taking us up high, then back down next to the creek. By 50miles we'd done most of the ascent. 

In winter the river must be a torrent but mid-summer it was just a creek babbling away. 

Saw fields of deer, some more hawks and my favourite bird, the tui was there tooting away for much of the day. They have a brilliant cheery call, perfect for a ring-tone hahaha

So now we're in the heart of kiwi land and staying in a pub. There's a county show on so it's all very rural! Kim has remarked on the robust locals, wearing unsuitable attire for their hearty frames. 

When I stopped earlier for a drink en route a local came to chat and started telling me about the gold rush as I downed another cappucino. I'd gone a bit funny as the barman had asked where I'd cycled from today and I thought, I haven't the foggiest. Luckily he hazarded some guesses in the awkward silence and he was right fourth time.

Jan also had a funny 5 minutes earlier in the day forgetting how to change gear, essentially, how to ride a bike! A near kiss the tarmac incident.

Gonna go and look for Jan and Phil now, wondering if Jan might be trading handyman Phil for some lambs at the show, now she's got a taste for the local meat.

Picton to Nelson

We arrived just after midnight at the motel in Picton, all a bit groggy as it was well past pyjama o'clock. I did get a bit over-excited partly due to the late hour and partly the horror of standing at the front of the ferry, with a load of lorries half a metre behind revving their engines. What is it with men and their vehicles here?!

So, Picton was a very pretty surprise as after breakfast outside

(Jan's skin didn't seem to have melted in the night) we took in the harbour before climbing the headland.

Wow.

Having told myself that while it was a pity not to be able to sail in during daylight yesterday to see the Sound, we'd had the chance to see lots of the capital. Well, nothing much beats two-wheeled sight seeing of Marlborough Sound. Cycling along Queen Charlotte Drive is the definition of awesome, usually a much overused word in my view. It simply took your breath away how naturally beautiful it is. It made for very slow cycling as I had to stop for photos every 800metres!

Saw the most cyclists yet today, often loaded with panniers. I expect you could count on both hands the number of cyclists seen on the North Island.

Euphoria abounded today and I ran out of superlatives in my head amongst the pine forests.

Today was what I'd dreamed about when I thought of a bike adventure here, and so clearly had Steve.

Simply perfect (apart from the obvious lack of my valentine, who I chatted to anyway). There were a lot more proper mad looking people about today, the first one was skateboarding down a col with a go pro on his helmet. Many big beards about too!

4 climbs today, the last was the biggest. Was fun beating a log laden lorry who couldn't find a small enough gear. 

So 70 miles today and as Jan said, this is living the dream.